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It’s Friday night in Columbus, Ohio, and Rick* is opening his first bottle of champagne. The orthopedic surgeon only lets a hiss escape. Popping champagne is for amateurs, and the Napa Valley vineyard-owner is a pro. The cuffs of his shirt were pressed to cut glass. In one fluid motion, he poured precisely eight ounces of brut into a solo cup and slid it across the bar to his companion Loraine

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